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CAZELLES... two pairs of (experienced) hands... a new adventure |
Anne Gros and Jean Paul Tollot, two winegrowers in Burgundy for over 20 years, have combined their expertise to serve the fine terroirs in Cazelles, in the Minervois !!! Love at first sight ?... Absolutely ! Reflection ?... Of course !
http://www.youtube.com/user/VineWineCellarVideos#p/a/u/0/01mMytKTXwU by Elisabeth Villeminot/ Peter Vezan
http://tastelanguedoc.blogspot.com/2011/07/burgundian-in-minervois-domaine-anne.html by Rosemary George
http://www.les5duvin.com/article-carignan-story-83-le-minervois-vu-par-des-bourguignons-83295780.html by Michel Smith
Article de David Cobbold L'Amateur de Vins septembre 2011: Ce Domaine qui appartient à 2 bourguignons, produit des vins dont la finesse d'arômes et de texture dépasse tout ce que j'ai gouté dans l'appellation. Mais ils possèdent aussi une belle structure et peuvent se garder quelques années. Leurs vins sont plus chers que les autres mais ils le valent bien!
Web Wine Advocate 2011 June:
Anne Gros of
the eponymous Vosne-Romanee domaine and her partner Jean-Paul Tollot (of
Domaine Tollot-Beaut) happened on the site of their new estate not long after
they conceived the possibility of working vineyards in the South, and Anne says
that as soon as she grasped the diversity of soils and glimpsed the several
substantial parcels on offer around tiny Cazelles - 14 hectares at the
high, northern edge of appellation Minervois just before it gives way to
Saint-Chinian (at the same elevation as Vosne-Romanee's crus), where nights are
generally cool even in mid-summer - she was smitten. Gros and Tollot have since
taken to the task of preserving the ancient vines and vineyard
ecosystems in this neighborhood with born-again zeal. The Gros-Tollot family of
four now lives and works here most weekends, although during the protracted
picking of these sites so dramatically different in soil, exposure, and cepage
- a harvest which overlaps that of the Cote d'Or - they can literally be pulled
in two directions. Given this couple's background and well-known talents, it
comes as no surprise to learn that they are rendering wines unlike any others
in Minervois, or indeed anywhere else in the Languedoc. Their aims are inter alia to
showcase each of their principle grape varieties - very much including
unjustly-slighted Cinsault and Carignan; each of their soil types - sandstone
and iron-rich chalk-clay; and elegance, levity, and refinement, vinous virtues
that, yes, might well be dubbed Burgundian. The prices of top cuvees emanating
from Gros and Tollot's new, extremely sophisticated facility (much of its
equipment mirroring that at
Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne) also set them Anne Gros of the eponymous
Vosne-Romanee domaine and her partner Jean-Paul Tollot (of
Domaine Tollot-Beaut) happened on the site of their new estate not long after
they conceived the possibility of working vineyards in the South, and Anne says
that as soon as she grasped the diversity of soils and glimpsed the several
substantial parcels on offer around tiny Cazelles - 14 hectares at the
high, northern edge of appellation Minervois just before it gives way to
Saint-Chinian (at the same elevation as Vosne-Romanee's crus), where nights are
generally cool even in mid-summer - she was smitten. Gros and Tollot have since
taken to the task of preserving the ancient vines and vineyard
ecosystems in this neighborhood with born-again apart from all but a handful of
Languedoc collections, in which respect Gros openly expresses her
disappointment that trade resistance has forced her to lower her sights a bit,
quite possibly beneath price levels that will be sustainable long-term given
the low yields and innovative, labor-and capital-intensive viticultural efforts
that characterize the Gros-Tollot regimen. (Example: there are three different
tractors to accommodate the widths of rows and method of vine-training in
different parcels.) One might argue that Gros was naive about consumers'
expectations of Minervois vis-a-vis famous-name Burgundy. But it is the trade and consumers
who ultimately must shed prejudice and recognize good value, unique
personalities, and exciting innovations in wine when they taste them - otherwise the market
will dictate that quality like that of these wines no longer issues from the
Languedoc, notwithstanding their eloquent testimony to what is possible. The
Gros-Tollot La 50/50 represents tank-vinified fruits of old vines Carignan and
Cinsault with those of some younger Grenache. Les Fontanilles is from a north-
and west-facing, densely garrigue-rimmed bowl of predominantly ultra-friable
sandstone but at places stony calcaire, planted with Grenache (in the
majority), Cinsault, Syrah, and centenarian Carignan, fruits of the latter two
sorts being matured in aged barriques. From south-facing but water-retentive
limestone and all four cepages - though Syrah is dominant - La Ciaude is raised
entirely in barrel; as is Les Carretals, from largely centenarian, dominantly
Carignan vines in a near-clos whose lime-, iron-, and clay-rich soil reminds
Gros of her parcel of Richebourg - except that this site is extraordinarily
rocky by any standards whatsoever. After three years of rigorous de-budding,
notes Gros, her younger vines seem now to have begun regulating themselves and
producing a smaller, balanced crop. Incidentally, the inaugural 2008 collection
here gained in charm and complexity during the nearly 12 month interval between
the two occasions when I tasted it. Whereas the 2009s - harvested on average
two weeks later than the 2008s and bottled last November - kicked into malo
directly out of their primary fermentations, malo-lactic transformation of the
2010s was - in typically Burgundian fashion - delayed until spring, so my notes
on wines of that vintage encompass the occasional lot with residual malic acid
or significant residual CO2. I did however deem my note on one wine representative
enough to be worth publishing as a foretaste of what is to come. Although there
was no drought stress or desiccation here in 2010, Gros reports that she and
Tollot were nonetheless amazed on pressing to realize how low was the
juice-to-skin ratio as well as the pH, all of which one tastes as vibrant
concentration, not to mention sees in wines whose deep colors belie their sense of
levity and elegance. David Schildknecht
Anne et Jean Paul
We chose Cazelles for the diversity of its soil, made of limestone, clay and sandstone, for the discovery of 4 main cepages (Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault), for the quality and the wide age range of its vines, the privileged environment at the foot of the Black Mountain, its altitude of 220 metres (identical to Vosne- Romanée).
A building was created to grow, receive, make and care for these fine terroir wines. It has been designed with great attention to detail, respecting the energies, the wines and the people... A beautiful architectural structure made of simple but noble materials...terracotta, wood, stainless steel... Roundness is eveywhere... the road, the hilles, the tanks, the barrels... the wines.
the vintage 2008 was born of our work in tandem:
Anne and Jean Paul trimming, during the green harvest, during the wine making and the maturing period.

Anne attaching the supports, pruning, lifting, hoeing... not forgetting all the administrative tasks.
Jean Paul dealing with the mechanics, looking after the soil, and thephytosanitary treatments.
Thibaut is now helping us to work the 1' ha, with tender loving care, in a reasoned way, with the tilling.
Our first vintage : 2008
We expected a racy style, laced with minerals, and fresh. We had a lot more! A very good balance of sugar and acidity ! A reason for such a result ? Slow maturity, cool nights, temperatures around 17 degrees during the harvest... This rminds us of the standard conditions in Burgundy... Harvest from September 18 to October 5.
This first vintage came to life with anxious anticipation. It did not disappoint ! It is vibrant.
Each plot and cepage were vinified separately in order to get acquainted with their expressions. We waited a year to discover their particuliarity and complementarity. One year of maturing before deciding on their blending.

Four vintages were born. They now rest in a Burgundian shaped bottle known as The Authentic. The colour orange played a decisive role in this Domaine... Cellars, materials, labels and cartons are all in harmony, like the colour of the Earth merging with the Sun.

The wines are available at the Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne-Romanée. Should you wish to discover more deeply this wonderful terroir. It would be a pleasure for us to welcome you in our 3 gîtes in Minervois.

Have you made the arrangements for your next holiday (or week-end break) ?
Why not treat yourself to a short break in the Minervois region?










